Multi-Axis Turning Screwdriver With Ferrule

Multi-Axis Turning Screwdriver With Ferrule

Hi, Alan Stratton, from As Wood Turns dot
com. A bit ago, when I made this 4 in 1 screwdriver
handle, I noted that it could be upscaled, (if you will) using eccentric techniques to
make it not round. The purpose would be so that it would not roll on a flat surface.
I also received comments that I did not put a ferrule on it. Well, I didn’t think I needed
one since I left plenty of wood on here. But, let’s go ahead and upscale this. I’ll use
a stack of wood that lying around in my shop of various hardwoods. We’ll use eccentric
techniques so that I can make more of a flat on two sides so that it will not roll on a
flat board. The other difference is a copper fitting to serve as a ferrule. And, it’s nice.
The downside of this one compared to the other one is, that it does take about twice as long.
So if you want a simple one, use this one. If you want one that is a little bit more
refined, then this eccentric 4 in 1 screwdriver handle is the one for you.
So today, let’s make an eccentric 4 in 1 screwdriver handle.
I’m starting with a squared off stack of laminated woods left over from some long ago project.
I’ve cut the blank oversized to allow for a mounting tenon. I’ve also marked four additional
centers on one end of the wood one quarter inch from the original center.
The first task is to rough it round and turn the tenon on the end. I want the tenon fairly
large to allow room for the offset centers that I’ll use later when “un-rounding” the
handle. I’ll work first on the largest portion of the handle.
Before I put it into the chuck, I’ll do the eccentric portion. I originally thought I’d
offset it four ways. After getting started, I decided that two offsets would be sufficient.
So, I’m offsetting the handle end by one quarter inch by moving the tail stock over, leaving
the headstock where it is. After putting a flatter curve on the one side,
I shifted the axis to the opposite marking and did it all again. Since I’m cutting so
much air, it’s kind of a wild ride. Sanding was much more of a challenge on this
now out of round piece. I wound up holding a piece of sand paper by the edges and letting
the middle touch the wood to sand it. There was no way my fingers could backup the sandpaper.
With the eccentric turning complete, I turned the wood around and mounted it in the chuck.
Then I remembered I needed the metal from the store bought screwdriver to size the holes
I needed to drill. So, taking a break, I placed the screwdriver
in a holding jig. At the band saw, I sawed off the handle well beyond where the metal
insert was. Once I could see better how deep it went, I sawed off more. I should have lowered
the upper guides. A viewer asked how to get the insert out of
the purchased screwdriver. The answer is really “Anyway you can”. I tried to hold it in a
clamp and used a chisel to split the plastic. A board protected the table saw from the chisel.
I’m still trying to figure out what I should have used to protect my hands from the chisel.
With the insert free, I returned to the lathe to drill out the shallow hole for the insert.
Masking tape marks how deep to drill. Next switch to a smaller diameter bit to drill
the deeper hole for the tips. With the hole ready, I’m ready to add the
ferrule. I had purchased a copper straight coupling fitting from the plumbing store.
At the lathe, I trimmed just a little off the end of the wood, then turned down the
end to fit the copper fitting. Once I had the fit right, I sawed it with
a hacksaw just a little longer than the wood. Next time, I might try cutting the copper
with a pointed scraper. The hacksaw left a rough edge but I did not deal with the roughness
until later. I spread some medium CA glue and pushed on
the piece of copper fitting using the tail stock to ram it home. After the glue hardened,
I used my carbide cutter to scrape the end of the fitting smooth and even with the wood.
This seemed to be a better alternative to having to tool the wood to fit the length
dimension. With the ferrule finished, I could finish
forming the thinner part of the handle. This is back on the main turning axis so this shaping
goes quickly. Next, I could sand this last area of the handle
including the copper. Finally, I prepared the very end of the screwdriver
and sanded that before parting the last little bit off.
I hate sanding the ends of spindles. This time I saw the ferrule as an opportunity.
I wrapped the ferrule with masking tape, then reversed the screwdriver again with the ferrule
in the chuck. A bit more sanding and I applied mineral and beeswax to finish it.
So, now I have the more complex version of my 4 in 1 or 6 in 1 screwdriver. Compared
to my earlier screwdriver version, this one adds a not-so-round handle so it has less
of a tendency to roll. And, it adds a ferrule for a little more strength. Next time, I would
continue the eccentric or off center work a little further towards the neck and try
an axis shift of 3/8 or 1/2 inch for a flatter curve to reduce the rolling risk a little
more. In the end, you be the judge: do you want the ferrule? Do you want it not to roll.
Personally, I refuse to take it to the belt sander to flatten the handle — after all,
I’m a woodturner. That would be sacrilege. Please click the like button on this video
and subscribe to both my website and YouTube channel. Always wear your face shield. Help!
I’m running low on possible facial injury insults to convince you to wear the face shield.
Until next time, this is Alan Stratton from As Wood Turns dot com.

Comments (39)

  1. I bought some screwdrivers at the dollar store to do that with and just have not done them yet, I really like the glued up wood handle so maybe I should get busy. Nice work as always. I do not have a problem with them rolling away, my problem is remembering where I put them down. 

  2. Great project and a fantastic video, show each step and hear it explained, I just might start taking apart all my screw drivers and fit them with a new turned handle… but that would be terrible, for the screw drivers I mean, I'll need to get me an exchangeable tipped one like you did and make it so.
    Thank again for the upload!

  3. Lastima no entender su idioma,pero verle sus manos……con que  delicadeza Ud. trabaja las herramientas me doy cuenta que es un MAESTRO de la Torneria.Muchas Gracias por subir,espero su proximo proyecto.Saludos Orlando

  4. I wonder if using a heat gun to soften the plastic would help in removing it from the metal part of the store bought screwdriver?

  5. Very nice. Turns a cheap tool into something good. Now let's see you do a hollow storage handle one.:)

  6. Fantastic handle for tool 😉

  7. I turn turning tool handles using this technique … I buy dimpled fittings and use a $10 pipe cutter to slice them in two.

  8. Really think you should do this in a three-sided version

    Seriously, nice job!

    I have found that the easiest way to cut a copper pipe fitting to make a ferrule is to spin it in the lathe while using a cutoff wheel on a Dremel tool to cut the metal.  Leaves a reasonably smooth edge, and more importantly, it cuts straight, something that I've never been able to manage with a hacksaw.

  9. I thought the first one was fine. If you are using it to pry then yes but other wise it should be fine. Thanks Allan. Enjoy this one also. Bob

  10. Try cutting the plastic handle with a small hacksaw until you have a very little plastic left. I do this on two opposite sides and pop the insert out.

  11. Hello Alan… I think this handle and the first one you did, are both as good as each other… Great video… Cheers…

  12. you are going to have the finest looking screwdriver set ever Alan
    very nice 
    All the best Robbie 

  13. Very nice looking handle!

  14. Good project Alan. Thank you for giving us good projects!

  15. Very interesting video with a great result so many thanks.

  16. Great job, Alan. Someone claimed boiling the plastic handles will make them slip right off. I haven't tried it, yet. I'll try it this weekend and report back.

  17. Both your screwdrivers now have the coolest handles I have seen. Great idea. Nice video. Thank you for sharing.

  18. As usual nice job Alan!

  19. Alan,
    This was a really good video on the making of an handle that could be used on just about any tool.


  20. Darn wood turning elitist snob refuses to use the belt sander……LOL

  21. Hi Alan, I have a question for you, I follow several wood turners in YouTube, and I admire the techniques and things that you make. I am about to buy my lathe now that I finally finished my workshop and I wonder how many HP does your have. I am sort of surveying different wood turners to have an idea of what would be an adequate one for me. Thanks in advance, Daniel

  22. Great job Alan. I like the idea of using wood scraps to make something useful. Up-cycling at it's best.

  23. Now that is one very classy handle Alan, great job my friend.
    Take care

  24. As usual an excellent instructional video Alan. If I may ask, what is the music that you play during your video's? I would love to have it piped into my headphones while I am turning.

  25. im just starting wood turning and i love it a lot. since im just starting i made my lathe out of a drill. i was wondering if anyone knows if they make a 4 or 3 jaw lathe chuck for a drill. its the only thing stoping me from hollowing my pieces. thx

  26. Cut right down the side of the tube with you're band saw from the back so no one can see any scuffs when you put you're new handle on. And can you find brass instead of copper I'm pretty young but I think brass was the way they use to do it. I know you can get brass for rolling you're Own riffle rounds ask you're gun smith. I'm a big fan of the oil finish. Grate vie I'll watch more 

  27. Hi Alan, after watching your great video I've made several of these. I found that after I cut the majority of the plastic handle off I put the remainder straddled my vice and use a large punch from the handle end and tap out the fitting. This seems to work great and it saves the fingers from the chisels. 

  28. Love this project. I suggest instead of the CHEAP big lots special screwdriver, You should get a Klein 11 in 1 screwdriver. Still pretty cheap at less than 13 dollars but the best screwdriver I have ever used. I packed one at work everyday while working maintenance at a factory. And no need for a hollow handle to hold bits.

  29. Looks good Alan. I like look of the mixed woods.

  30. Next time you can try putting the handle in a vice or large clamp then taking a beater pair of neadle nose pliers heat the one tip red hot and slide it in to the plastic wiggle it side to side and pinch the metal insert. With the handle still in the vice and the insert pinched heat the handle with a touch and pull it out try not to over heat the insert so the integrity of the metal is not compromised I tried it on a six in one with a broken handle and it worked great and much faster and less painful if I do it again I would thin the hands some to get rid of some plastic other then that and having an exhausted area or going outside. And I would turn it on a real lathe I used an electric drill after installing the insert I chucked the shaft in the drill and turned it on sand paper lol

  31. couldn't you just turn the plastic away from the old screwdriver?

  32. Turning napkin rings

  33. If you use a rotary pipe cutter on the fitting, the rotary action will give a parallel cut, and round off the "open" end of the ferrule. It also tends to leave a tiny burr on the inside of the cut, which would allow it to push onto the front and stop it falling back off again, if the wood fit is tight enough.

    I guess the eccentric technique could be used to make a set of cabinet pattern handles for screwdrivers.

  34. Found a way to save the handle. Just drill a couple of small holes in the top end of the handle right next to the steel nut —just enough so you can grab the nut out with needle nose pliers. Then heat up the nut with a heat gun until you are able to pull out the nut! Works like a charm and I used the handles for push sticks by turning down some pine to slip into the plastic handle. I just jam fit mine so I could replace them as they get dinged up.

  35. One other point —If you use a tube cutter to cut the ferrule ahead of time and size you rtenon correctly it really works slick. And the cut end tapers in automatically. Learned that when making my carbide wood turning tools.

  36. To reduce or eliminate the roll, I used 1.5"x1.5" stock and rounded the edges of the gripping portion of the handle.

  37. not to be that guy.. but it is pronounced "Feral" right?

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