Hi, Alan Stratton, from As Wood Turns dot
com. A bit ago, when I made this 4 in 1 screwdriver
handle, I noted that it could be upscaled, (if you will) using eccentric techniques to
make it not round. The purpose would be so that it would not roll on a flat surface.
I also received comments that I did not put a ferrule on it. Well, I didn’t think I needed
one since I left plenty of wood on here. But, let’s go ahead and upscale this. I’ll use
a stack of wood that lying around in my shop of various hardwoods. We’ll use eccentric
techniques so that I can make more of a flat on two sides so that it will not roll on a
flat board. The other difference is a copper fitting to serve as a ferrule. And, it’s nice.
The downside of this one compared to the other one is, that it does take about twice as long.
So if you want a simple one, use this one. If you want one that is a little bit more
refined, then this eccentric 4 in 1 screwdriver handle is the one for you.
So today, let’s make an eccentric 4 in 1 screwdriver handle.
I’m starting with a squared off stack of laminated woods left over from some long ago project.
I’ve cut the blank oversized to allow for a mounting tenon. I’ve also marked four additional
centers on one end of the wood one quarter inch from the original center.
The first task is to rough it round and turn the tenon on the end. I want the tenon fairly
large to allow room for the offset centers that I’ll use later when “un-rounding” the
handle. I’ll work first on the largest portion of the handle.
Before I put it into the chuck, I’ll do the eccentric portion. I originally thought I’d
offset it four ways. After getting started, I decided that two offsets would be sufficient.
So, I’m offsetting the handle end by one quarter inch by moving the tail stock over, leaving
the headstock where it is. After putting a flatter curve on the one side,
I shifted the axis to the opposite marking and did it all again. Since I’m cutting so
much air, it’s kind of a wild ride. Sanding was much more of a challenge on this
now out of round piece. I wound up holding a piece of sand paper by the edges and letting
the middle touch the wood to sand it. There was no way my fingers could backup the sandpaper.
With the eccentric turning complete, I turned the wood around and mounted it in the chuck.
Then I remembered I needed the metal from the store bought screwdriver to size the holes
I needed to drill. So, taking a break, I placed the screwdriver
in a holding jig. At the band saw, I sawed off the handle well beyond where the metal
insert was. Once I could see better how deep it went, I sawed off more. I should have lowered
the upper guides. A viewer asked how to get the insert out of
the purchased screwdriver. The answer is really “Anyway you can”. I tried to hold it in a
clamp and used a chisel to split the plastic. A board protected the table saw from the chisel.
I’m still trying to figure out what I should have used to protect my hands from the chisel.
With the insert free, I returned to the lathe to drill out the shallow hole for the insert.
Masking tape marks how deep to drill. Next switch to a smaller diameter bit to drill
the deeper hole for the tips. With the hole ready, I’m ready to add the
ferrule. I had purchased a copper straight coupling fitting from the plumbing store.
At the lathe, I trimmed just a little off the end of the wood, then turned down the
end to fit the copper fitting. Once I had the fit right, I sawed it with
a hacksaw just a little longer than the wood. Next time, I might try cutting the copper
with a pointed scraper. The hacksaw left a rough edge but I did not deal with the roughness
until later. I spread some medium CA glue and pushed on
the piece of copper fitting using the tail stock to ram it home. After the glue hardened,
I used my carbide cutter to scrape the end of the fitting smooth and even with the wood.
This seemed to be a better alternative to having to tool the wood to fit the length
dimension. With the ferrule finished, I could finish
forming the thinner part of the handle. This is back on the main turning axis so this shaping
goes quickly. Next, I could sand this last area of the handle
including the copper. Finally, I prepared the very end of the screwdriver
and sanded that before parting the last little bit off.
I hate sanding the ends of spindles. This time I saw the ferrule as an opportunity.
I wrapped the ferrule with masking tape, then reversed the screwdriver again with the ferrule
in the chuck. A bit more sanding and I applied mineral and beeswax to finish it.
So, now I have the more complex version of my 4 in 1 or 6 in 1 screwdriver. Compared
to my earlier screwdriver version, this one adds a not-so-round handle so it has less
of a tendency to roll. And, it adds a ferrule for a little more strength. Next time, I would
continue the eccentric or off center work a little further towards the neck and try
an axis shift of 3/8 or 1/2 inch for a flatter curve to reduce the rolling risk a little
more. In the end, you be the judge: do you want the ferrule? Do you want it not to roll.
Personally, I refuse to take it to the belt sander to flatten the handle — after all,
I’m a woodturner. That would be sacrilege. Please click the like button on this video
and subscribe to both my website and YouTube channel. Always wear your face shield. Help!
I’m running low on possible facial injury insults to convince you to wear the face shield.
Until next time, this is Alan Stratton from As Wood Turns dot com.